Exploring the River to River Trail
by Angie J. Mayfield
Angie J. Mayfield is an author, teacher, lifelong mule rider, and owner of Mayfield Farms near Elizabethtown, Illinois. She can be contacted at Profmayfield@yahoo.com
Tucker and Dora riding through a pine forest at Mayfield Farms
(from the October 2022 issue of Mules and More)
Though I’ve trail-ridden in all 50 states and six countries, Shawnee National Forest in southern Illinois is still on my top 20 list of the best places to ride in terms of accessibility and scenery. No, it doesn’t come close to the beauty of my favorite state, Montana, but it doesn’t get snowed in five months of the year or cost me $2,000 in fuel to get there either. Southern Illinois is also one of the most affordable places to live, so I chose to move here so I could ride right off my peaceful 54-acre property into the national forest anytime I wanted. Now that I’m not driving every other weekend, I have more time to explore the 159-mile River to River trail that winds its way from the Ohio River to the Mississippi River, covering nearly all of the southern half of the state, including both sides of my new backyard.
One of the Midwest’s hidden treasures for trail riders and hikers, the scenic R2R trail passes through some of the most remote areas of Illinois, including five designated wildernesses, six state parks, and several state natural areas. There are bayous, bluffs, wetlands/swamps, grasslands, and upland forests throughout. Abundant with wildlife, I rarely ride without seeing deer, bald eagles, owls, red-tailed hawks, bobcat, raccoons, turkeys, foxes, armadillos, and several of the more than 250 bird species here. However, the giant rock formations and waterfalls are the biggest draw for explorers. Garden of the Gods, Jackson Falls, Bell Smith Springs, Giant City State Park, Crab Orchard National Wildlife Refuge, Fern Clyffe State, Dixon Springs, and the numerous lakes in the area are a few of the top attractions, but I prefer the secluded, less touristy parts of Shawnee with hundreds of miles of narrower, more challenging trails that meander off and around the R2R to gorgeous areas such as Rice Hollow, Dead Horse Canyon, Hurricane Bluffs, Indian Kitchen, Lusk Creek, Sand Cave, Little Grand Canyon, One Horse Gap, the Promised Land, Initial Tree, and many others, which are just as breathtaking but often missed except for those of us who trail ride and know the area well.
The River to River Trail Society (www.rivertorivertrail.com) dedicated a monument to the memory of the trail’s founder, John O’Dell, in August near his beloved trail at Herod. An educator, minister, and outdoorsman, O’Dell, who founded the society, died last year. The River to River Trail was little more than a dream and loosely drawn lines on a map until the 1990s, when John set out on foot to blaze and map a trail across southern Illinois. Soon, other outdoor enthusiasts joined in to help create, promote, and maintain the trail. In addition to the R2R society and the forestry service, Shawnee Conservancy and Back Country Horseman volunteers all pitch in to maintain the trail. Doug and I have joined in and have been working to clear the trail between Camp Cadiz and our farm and the old R2R trail between our place south to Elizabethtown. Between the lush vegetation in the area and erosion problems due to rain, it’s a big job and more volunteers are needed. The forestry service recommends two to three weeks to travel the 159 miles, easy to medium difficulty trail, but two hikers have completed it in three days. And the R2R is now part of the American Discovery Trail that extends coast to coast from Point Reyes National Seashore in California to Cape Henlopen State Park in Delaware and covers more than 5,000 miles, but not all of it is open to equestrians. When trail riding long distances, always pack water and snacks, a halter and lead rope, a flashlight, and a first aid kit. There are numerous creeks and lakes, but the water must be filtered for human use. Several campgrounds, picnic areas, and restrooms can be found along the trail as well.
I had ridden about 65 miles of the River to River trail numerous times over the past 15 years camping at High Knob, 34 Ranch, Bay Creek, and the Jack Davis camp and also riding from Herod to Eddyville. However, I’d never adventured west toward the Mississippi or south much beyond Camp Cadiz. The first thing I did after moving in March was ride the southern portion of the River to River trail that goes to Battery Rock, Elizabethtown, and the Ohio River. The trail is rugged and not as wide or maintained as the widely used areas around the camps, but it was navigable and just as beautiful. Off the beaten path, I even found an old fluorspar mine and a few lakes surrounded with ancient cypress trees, and my family now loves to go fish and canoe there. From my house to the Ohio River takes about five hours, depending on the mule I ride and what I find to photograph. Then, once there, I can stop, tie out my mule, hang out at the river, or go down to the Fish House, a restaurant on a barge on the Ohio River, and grab a delicious fish sandwich or dinner. If I’m tired, I can call Doug to bring the trailer and come get us.
For my next adventure, I started at Devil’s Backbone Park near Grand Tower, along the Mississippi River, and rode south then east to the quaint little town of Alto Pass, traveling through the west side of Shawnee National Forest and Makanda. I couldn’t believe the scenery I had missed out on all these years. I saw more unique species of birds than I’d ever seen. Migrating birds rest and eat in the floodplains along the Mississippi and make quite the spectacle in appearance and sounds. After some road riding, most of that section of the trail navigates through large oak and hickory forests and across Hutchins Creek and Big Muddy River (there’s a bridge). Giant City is a gorgeous state park with a horse camp and lodge that reminds me of old Yellowstone. Inspiration Point was the highlight, however, and the overlook lives up to its name. I ended up near Bald Knob Cross at dark, an awe-inspiring landmark overlooking Shawnee with one of the best vistas around. It’s the largest Christian monument in North America, a stainless steel cross 111 feet tall and 1,034 feet above sea level at the base. What a great way to end a beautiful but exhausting weekend. There’s even a gift shop there that sells drinks and snacks and a public restroom.
Angie and grandkids riding R2R near their farm
I’ve only ridden a few miles of the trail between Alto Pass and Burden Falls trailhead, so I plan to complete my last section of the River to River trail over Thanksgiving weekend. However, I look forward to riding the scenic trail, and all of those around it, again and again as much as I can now that I am fortunate to live in the beautiful Shawnee National Forest year-round. Come visit Mayfield Farms, and I’ll show you the sites, including Cave In Rock along the Ohio River and the ferry that goes over to Amish country. Mayfield Farms offers guided trail rides on your mules or ours, boarding, camping, bed (cabin) and breakfast, and gaited mule sales – and great campfires and banjo music, compliments of Tucker. Happy trails! I’ll see you out there.